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27/01/04

Looking for a better service


With the vast majority of the floor to ceiling tiles removed and the walls of the larder, it was on to the services - electricity and water.
Well, thank god that's all but finished; the final tiles behind the boiler will have to wait until we have the new one fitted. Trouble is, removing them has left the walls in a bit of a mess. The undercoat plaster is patchy and deeply ridged. It doesn't look like they worried about it too much in the first place, because the kitchen has always been fully tiled. We are going to have to do something about the undercoat before skimming.

Of course, cutting in new pipe work and altering the ring main has only made the situation worse. I've dropped in a hot and cold supply to the sink to be connected up under the bathroom floor above. This was necessary because the drinking water and hot water pipe are currently both lead. I didn't fancy digging up the floor, so it was a case of 'over the top'.

I use pre-soldered joints for plumbing. I find these are the best compromise for a DIY'er. My soon-to-be-brother-in-law recently experimented with the modern plastic compression fittings and found them quick but temperamental. And, I think traditional metal compression fittings are too clumsy for anything but final connection of taps, etc.

When using pre-soldered joints, you need to be careful with the heat. Keep the torch turned down and heat evenly and slowly. Keep switching sides and the angle. Don't point it into the joint and heat in short bursts - otherwise the solder will erupt out, leaving the joint empty.

Look all around your joint for signs of the solder rising. A few times I've been heating and heating a joint wondering where the solder is only to then notice it has all run out underneath! As soon as you see the solder, take the heat away. Let the joint cool naturally and don't move it while it is. If you've got shaky hands like me, you should support your work with wood blocks or bricks. An old tile makes a good heat deflector.

I often test critical joints - the ones I am going to cover over - in a bowl of water. Block the other end up with a wet rag and blow... see any bubbles? My final tip for solder joints is that it works best on dry pipes. If you are soldering onto the existing system, evacuate it to a point at least 10cm away from the joint. Otherwise you will struggle to get good heat and a good joint!

Getting the pipes in ready means I can get on and make good, then just connect up in the floor space when the boiler is changed. Ditto the electrics. There is all new wire in the house, but much of it is surface mounted. Plus all four sockets on the ring were on one wall. I've simply rearranged the position of the sockets and added a few switched connection units for the integrated appliances, within the original ring. All the wiring has been chased in within conduit for a professional job.

The next job looks like making good these walls...

Pre-soldered pipe joint

 Pre-soldered pipe joint


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